野間 万里子

The purpose of this paper is to clarify the change in beef supply in Japan after the Russo-Japanese war. Both civilian and military demand for beef rose sharply during the period, and domestic cattle farming could no longer support Japan's growing demand for beef. Japan had expanded its empire by colonizing Korea in 1910 and occupying Shandong in 1924 as a result of the battle of Qingdao. These events made it possible to import cattle and beef from Korea and Qingdao to satisfy Japan's growing demand for beef. The results of this study reveal the following two important points. The first point concerns the actions taken to counter rinderpest. Import of cattle was associated with the risk of animal infection, especially rinderpest. Japan suffered repeated accumulation of rinderpest that accompanied to cattle import. These rinderpest epidemics became the key factor for declining imports of cattle from Quingdao, which were then replaced by imports of carcasses instead. However, imports from Korea did not decline despite the influx of the disease. This may be attributed to the high reputation enjoyed by cattle imports from Korea, not just as asource of beef but also as a farming cattle: cattle from Korea were also used as field labor. The second point is that there were distinct differences between the cattle reared in Japan itself and the beef imports, which led to differentiation in meat quality. During the period under study, Japan developed techniques for fattening cattle, which were mainly targeted at producing marbled meat for gyunabe. The imported beef and cattle were thus evaluated as being inferior to the fattened indigenous cattle. However, the supply of inferior and low-priced imported beef contributed towerd popularizing the custom of eating beef in Japan.

筆者はこれまで近代日本における肉食受容について研究を行うなかで、①牛鍋という消費形態で受容されたこと、②文明開化期の牛鍋ブームが広範に存在した役牛を利用することで可能になったこと、③明治後期には役肉兼用という制約を受けながらも肥育技術が展開し脂肪交雑の入った高品質な牛肉生産が目指されるようになったこと、を明らかにしてきた. 本稿では、文明開花期以降2度目の肉食拡大･普及の画期とされる日露戦争が食肉生産･供給に与えた影響を明らかにすることを目的とする.日本近代における肉食に日露戦争が与えたインパクトとしてはこれまで、従軍経験＝肉食経験として地方への肉食拡大の消費側の要因として言及されてきた. 供給サイドへの影響としては、これまでにも国内畜牛業への打撃と、それへの対応としての朝鮮牛輸入が指摘されている.たとえば大江は｢戦時軍需による大量屠殺が役牛飼育にいかに深刻な影響をあたえ、しかも飼育頭数の戦前水準を回復するに5年間を要するとともに、戦時屠殺による飼育頭数の絶対数の減少分の実に44.5％を輸入に依存しなければならなかった｣としている. 輸入にかんしては、日露戦後の朝鮮牛輸入の本格化と、第一次世界大戦内でのドイツとの戦争（日独戦争）による膠州湾租借地獲得後の山東牛移入開始についての制度的、数量的研究がなされている. 本研究では視点を内地に置き、対象時期は、食の変化は時間差を伴って現れるものであるため、日露戦時から昭和戦前期までとする.

文明開化期の牛鍋ブームの中、肉食は、薬食という建前の下許されるものからおおっぴらに楽しむことができるものへと変化した。「肉食はけがれるものとおぼへまして、とんと用ひずにをりましたが、御時世につれまして、此味をおぼへましたら、わすられませぬ」と語られることになる。牛鍋ブームを可能としその後の肉消費拡大を支えたのは、広範に存在した役牛であった。明治初期にはすでに100万頭を超す牛が主に農用として存在しており、耕耘機の普及する1950年ごろまで、一部の乳牛を除き、牛は役肉兼用として飼養されていた。本稿では、明治期から近江牛や江州牛、あるいは神戸牛として高評価の牛を送り出していた滋賀県を事例に、役牛から役肉牛への転換の中でどのように肥育技術が展開し、軟らかい肉を求めるひとびとの食欲に応えようとしたのかを検討する。その際、使役段階と肥育段階とがどのような関係として捉えられていたのかも、明らかにしたい。また、滋賀県における牛肥育が、高級肉消費地である東京との結びつきの中で展開したことも示す。

In civilization and enlightenment period, gyunabe became popular, and for common people meat practically meant for gyunabe. Gyunabe inherited the way of cooking and the style of eating of kusurigui, most typical form of eating meat before the Restoration. But it became a symbol of civilization and enlightenment. The new government was encouraging eating meat, at that time. The Emperor Meiji first ate meat in 1872. He ate meat as Western food, not gyunabe, and the government regarded meat as beef and mutton. That is to say, the government considered that eating meat was a variety of Western civilization. I must add that besides gyunabe and Western food, there was another style of eating meat, a stewed meat stand. That was regarded as the food for the poor. Some reasons made it possible that eating meat was accepted as gyunabe. In the first place, people associated eating meat with civilization. The civilization included both Westernization and rationalities. The former couldn't have effect on people had ill feeling for Western. But the later was accepted more generally. In early modern times, to eat meat was thought disgusting conduct. Rational explanations were worked out to deny such a thought as superstition. Nutritional thinking also supported gyunabe boom. And, appetite was suppressed before Meiji, but after the Restoration, people could enjoy eating delicious things. This is also an important change. At that time, ranking formed among meat. The meat of wild animals seemed the lowest. Among the meat of livestock, beef was thought more refined than pork. Because pig was resemble to wild boar, eaten as kusurigui, and pork was associated with Ryukyu or Asia in spite of beef was associated with Western. As stated above, gyunabe was ranked higher than stewed meat stands. One of the reasons was rationalities, that was made valid by Western civilization. So Western food came higher rank.